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Christian History Home > Issue 97 > Two Thousand Camels


From the Editor
Two Thousand Camels
In the Byzantine era, 300 years before the Muslim conquest, the Holy Land bloomed into a center of Christian worship, pilgrimage, and monasticism.
Jennifer Trafton | posted 1/01/2008 12:00AM

When I declined the camel ride attraction, my tour guide took me by the elbow and tried to sell me to some Arab merchants standing nearby. "What will you give me for her?" he asked them.

"Nothing," said one, "I already have two women." Another was more indulgent: "Two thousands camels, a Mercedes, and my heart."

It was one of many occasions in Israel when I cringed at being an American tourist. I wondered what the locals thought of our fanny packs, cameras, and gaping mouths. "Excuse me while I admire your history. I'm not really interested in you—just those stones you walk by every day."

As members of an "archaeological study tour," we were not quite as gullible as many modern pilgrims. We met grandiose historical claims with cheerful skepticism. But we were pilgrims nonetheless, following the trail of biblical sites, collecting our souvenir olive wood communion cups, and singing hymns on the bus. It was often hard to strike a spiritual mood amidst the political graffiti, falafel, bargain ...

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