Opinion | Church

Stop Reading This and Get Back in the Kitchen

Why our Christmas domesticity matters more than we know.

It's Christmas time—and I'm thinking of sweet corn. When it arrives at the farmers' market in mid-July, my family knows to expect fresh corn chowder. Last summer, we rented an apartment in Montréal, Quebec, and when chowder season dawned, to my delight, I unexpectedly found an immersion blender in one of the kitchen drawers.

I was enamored with the little appliance. Where had it been all my culinary life? I must have gushed on—and on—about the immersion blender, for we weren't back in Toronto one week when my husband and 9-year-old son came home wearing proud smiles and carrying a medium-sized box.

So it was that I added an immersion blender to my growing inventory of kitchen tools. This is the kind of consumer instinct on which kitchen retailers like Sur La Table and Williams-Sonoma are counting this Christmas. They trust we'll stock our kitchens with gifted gadgets—and fail to remember that we're actually cooking far less than we ever have.

In her recent Atlantic ...

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